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Having lived in LA for two decades, I've more or less forgotten that most of the city's more touristy destinations or activities even exist. The two major exceptions, which I still recommend to visitors who I know will be horribly disappointed with the Walk of Fame and the Santa Monica Pier: a Griffith Observatory hike, and a martini at Musso & Frank. And honestly, the martinis are really just fine -- it's the wood on the booths and the uniforms of the servers that sell the place.

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